Sunday, 23 March 2014

Caverns and Drag Queens

Today I headed deeper into Virginia expecting more Civil War but actually found myself in deep caverns which was a pleasant change !

The Skyline Caverns were discovered in 1937 and opened to the public in 1939.  Dr Walter S Amos (have you noticed how often Americans use their middle initial in their day-to-day names ?) was specifically looking for a set of caverns that could be used as a tourist attraction and discovered what are quite an impressive set of caves.

Entry is by way of a guided tour and they are very clear that no-one is to touch the rock as the oils from our hands can cause damage.  Halfway through the tour there was a very large stalactite that had broken off and fallen and was the only piece of rock that it was permitted to touch and indeed it was easy to see the different texture of it after having been handled for 70-odd years.

They had done quite a good job of lighting the rock with some areas illuminated with multi-coloured lights and others just by white.

It was amazing to think of much of this being packed with mud that had be dug out by Dr Amos and his work crew; a back-breaking task no doubt.






At one time during Dr Amos' dig he thrust his shovel into a wall of mud and was unable to pull it out.  Eventually with great force he managed to work it free only to hear a sound he later described as a shotgun blast, his hat sucked through the hole and a great wind.  He had just penetrated a naturally created vacuum, quite rare on earth, we were told.

Once inside the cavern that had previously held the vacuum, Dr Amos located his hat as well as a distinctive rock growth never seen before which he was therefore able to name.  The picture to the left shows this growth of Anthodites which resemble a fern of sorts but are actual growing rock.  Well they were until the vacuum was broken and it is believed that they are growing no longer.

Should one wish, a marriage can be arranged in the cavern to the left and several have been held here although, deep as it is, one would want to make sure the guest list was fairly fit as there were no escalators or elevators to the surface !





Following my ascent from the caverns I continued my trip to Harrisonburg and, after checking into my accommodation, checked to see if there was anything happening in the town that night.  Online I discovered that the local Playhouse was putting on a production of Steel Magnolias and, with tickets just $12, I thought it might be a pleasant way to spend the evening.

I bought ticket and called for a cab, thinking that I might have a few drinks after the show in the town.  Chatting with the driver, I mentioned that I was visiting civil war sites. He said that Virginians were very proud of their civil war forebears and went on to say that there were two main things to remember: first that slavery should never have happened but, secondly, that the north handled it all wrong and a war could have been avoided. The war may have been 150 years ago but it is clear that it is not a forgotten topic here in Virginia where 60% of the battles were fought, some areas being systematically destroyed in scorched-earth action FIVE times as the armies passed back and forth. 

The cab driver dropped me off and I collected my ticket but had an hour to kill so looked for a place to grab a bite to eat. I wandered through the theatre and found this wonderful old show shine station which looked as if it was still in use although I didn't get a chance to return to verify that.  I wonder how many people in this day and age of sneakers who wear shoes that require a shine.

I walked next door and there was a bar that appeared to need a cover charge. I mentioned to the chap selling tickets that I was just looking for some food thinking it was going to turn into a nightclub later on. He let me in and I walked into a place half full, with sparkly curtains on a tiny stage and a couple of completely done out drag queens complete with wigs, make up, heels and dresses. Thinking I'd wandered into a gay bar but one that served food and me being hungry, I ordered some food and a beer. As I ate, the venue started to fill up and so, intrigued by what was going to happen, I googled the group. The show was only on for tonight and had rave reviews so, as Steel Magnolias was playing for 2 more nights, and as I was supposed to be experiencing everything on this trip, I decided to stay. Tickets were just three dollars and I settled down to see what the show would bring. 

I had originally asked for a light beer at the bar, not recognizing any of the pumps, but this time I asked what it was I was drinking as it was different to anything I'd had before, although very good.  I was told it was a pear beer...yes pear, I had to double check too !  Devil's Backbone Pear Lager to be exact. If you find yourself in a bar with it on tap, I recommend the experience.

I can't, however, recommend the drag show that I saw.  While the outfits were magnificent and the singers larger than me, especially with their 6 inch heels I was disappointed to find that there wasn't going to be any actual singing taking place and all the show involved was some rather bad miming and each performer just walking around through the audience as people waved dollar bills at them.

I suspect even the most amateur performance of Steel Magnolias would have been a better option.




The men's washroom was also an interesting experience as it was one room, with no door lock, 2 urinals and a toilet.  I certainly don't mind sharing a washroom with other men using the urinals but I think I would draw the line at having someone sitting on a toilet behind me !

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